Shape Guides

Asscher Cut Diamonds

A square step-cut asscher diamond with cut corners shown against a white background

A little fact about me; I want to teleport back in time and live in the 1920’s. Unfortunately, that mode of transport has yet to be invented and so I concede that I will have to make do with some more reasonable nods to the Gatsby era. Cue the asscher cut diamond, which embodies all of the elegance and grace of that period. I mean, who wouldn’t love walking around with a little piece of art deco style on their finger all day?

What's an Asscher Cut?

Just like the emerald cut, the asscher has the ‘step’ cut rather than the ‘brilliant’ cut of the round diamonds, but unlike the emerald cut they have these uber cool angled corners which make them look more octagonal than square. For me there is something just a little bit funkier about an Asscher cut diamond, it’s like looking down into kaleidoscope. Look at this bad boy for a good comparison;

Asscher Upsides

The great thing about asschers are that they have the same depth ‘cheat’ that the emeralds have. Go as low as you can on the depth and it will make for a larger looking stone. Plus, because asschers have more facets you get much more sparkle out of them than with the emerald cut (although not anything like a brilliant cut so don’t get your hopes up there). Look at me, managing your expectations like a pro! You’re welcome.

Asscher Downsides

One of the downsides of asschers though, is that they tend to look smaller than other diamonds of the same weight. Some people suggest that this is because much of the stone’s weight is underneath, but I believe it has more to do with those gorgeous tapered edges and hypnotic ‘square within a square’ vibe going on in the center of the stones themselves. It really does look like your eye is being drawn in to the center. That said, I wouldn’t say no if someone gave me one. I repeat…. I wouldn’t say no. Plus, you can just overcome this size issue by buying a MASSIVE asscher.

Asscher Diamond Ratios

Our recommended table width percentage is 55%-65%, and depth percentage is 60%-68%.

Now be careful with the length to width ratio again with these babies, we want as near to a perfect square as possible, otherwise it’s just a crime.

The farther away from a ratio of 1.00, the more rectangle the diamond will appear. That being said, you can get rectangular asschers (and they are just a beautiful as the squares), but my attitude is if you’re going with rectangle, commit to it 100% - don’t just getting a crappy cut square and pawn it off as a rectangle. We will all know and judge you accordingly.

Asscher Color and Clarity

Finally, the advice I will give you on color and clarity is the same as with the emerald. This cut may be a knock out, but it will not tolerate low clarity grades and mediocre color grades...say no to low clarity and color grades with asschers.

Stick with ‘G’ color or above, ‘H’ at a push but only if you can see the stone first. Clarity wise, anything under ‘VS2’ is the asscher equivalent of buying the new iPhone and then throwing it down the toilet. Just don’t.

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