Tips and Tricks

What is an Asscher Cut Diamond? | Rare Carat

We all get confused from time to time, but it seems almost impossible to be well informed when it comes to diamonds. Looking on the bright side, there is always something new to learn for all of us, and today you’ll learn about the infamous Asscher cut! Welcome to the one-stop-shop for all you need to know about Asscher cut diamonds.

Asscher Cut Shape

Asscher cuts have a very distinct appearance that is easy to spot once you know what you’re looking for. Asscher cut diamonds are square emerald cuts, sort of like a princess-step cut! However, a unique feature of these cuts are the beveled corners that will not chip and break like their princess cut cousin. They are sometimes cut with such wide corners that they resemble an octagon.

A square step-cut asscher diamond with cut corners shown against a white background

Asscher Cut Features

Since Asscher cut diamonds use a step cut’s faceting style it’s easy to see right through them like windows. For this reason, it’s important to choose a higher clarity when shopping for your own. Professionals recommend shopping for a clarity grade of VS2 or higher on smaller sizes, however, VVS will be desirable for 2.00ct and higher. This faceting style does benefit the brilliance with a unique and elegant sparkle, more than an emerald cut, but less than a round cut.

Asscher cut diamonds; left is D/flawless and eye clean. Right is an 1/SI1 showing visible inclusions and warmth

What is the History Behind Asscher Cuts?

This stunning cut was patented by the famous Asscher family who became well known for cutting the Cullinan diamond, a 3,106ct rock, in 1907 which was commissioned by the British Royal Family. Although this cut first appeared in 1902, it didn’t get traction until around the 1920s when it became a staple of the Art Deco period, and still gives off a Great Gatsby vibe today.

asscherCut1.jpg

Other Cuts by the Royal Asscher Family

Although they are less well known, there are three additional cuts patented by the Asscher family; Asscher oval, Asscher cushion, and Asscher brilliant. Each of these unique cuts boasts 74 facets according to the Asscher family’s website. That means all of these cuts are a modified version of the original. Traditionally, each of these cuts has 58 facets. 58 to 74 facets is a big difference in the light return and sparkle!

The Krupp Diamond / Elizabeth Taylor Diamond

How did this diamond get its double name and celebrity status? Well, that is quite the story.

In the 1950's, The Krupp diamond is one of the most well known rocks around. Historians have ideas on this stone’s lineage, but the earliest documented account of this magnificent 33.19ct Asscher cut was around 1952 to the German actress Vera Krupp. The actress was gifted this marvelous stone in the form of a ring that she brought with her when she relocated to the United States. Following Vera’s divorce, she settled into a private ranch outside of Las Vegas, however, her quiet life was turned upside down on the evening of April 10, 1959, when her precious ring was stolen right off of her finger! Vera enlisted the help of the FBI to find her ring, but by the time it was found, all of the stones had already been taken out of their settings and the Krupp diamond was found separate from the accent stones. All diamonds were returned to Vera, but she remained vigilant for the rest of her days to not repeat the incident. Her cautiousness from this experience went so far that it manifested in the form of secret escape rooms and passageways in her home.

Fast forward to 1968, when Richard Burton bought the Asscher cut Krupp diamond for his wife, Elizabeth Taylor. Her favorite piece of jewelry (for good reason) the Krupp diamond, was renamed the Elizabeth Taylor Diamond, following her passing in 2011. So you can see, this diamond has received its fair share of the spotlight, after becoming a key part of these actress’s images, and is still well known worldwide to this day.

Asscher cuts are a unique and modern version of a step cut that makes a statement. Although this cut’s rap sheet isn’t as long as an emerald cut, the Asscher cut has undoubtedly, a rich and lively history. You too could be the proud owner of these vivacious diamonds. Visit Rarecarat.com to search through our collection of Asscher cuts or chat with one of our trained gemologists to help decide if these timeless cuts are right for you!

Elizabeth Callnan
Elizabeth Callnan
Elizabeth grew up toddling around in her Grandfather's rock shop which shaped her love and passion for gemstones. Started by her Great Grandfather, she has definitely followed in her family's footsteps. She has recently completed her Graduate Gemologist courses at the GIA and is now working on studying pearls. When she's not adoring the dazzle of gemstones (or writing about them) she's enjoying the captivating beauty of her home state, Hawaii!