What You Need to Know About Asscher Cut Diamonds | Rare Carat

About Asscher Cut Diamonds

Asscher cut diamonds are the stars of the Roaring 20s.
They have a “step cut”, just like their emerald cut cousins. But they look more octagonal than square. Also, they have more facets than emerald cuts, which makes them much more sparkly.
Just like in emerald cuts, the lower you go on depth in asscher cut diamonds, the bigger your diamond will look.
Now the cons: asscher cut diamonds usually look smaller than other diamond cuts with the same carat weight.
Again, just like emerald cut diamonds, asscher cut diamonds are bad at hiding color and inclusions. My advice is you stick with at least a G color diamond. For clarity, don’t go below a VS2. Trust me, you don’t want that.

Asscher Cut Diamond FAQs

What’s the defining look of an Asscher cut diamond compared with other shapes?

An Asscher cut features a square outline with clipped corners and step-cut facets—think of it as a “square emerald” style. It’s known for its octagonal appearance and the way its facets create a mirror-like depth rather than intense sparkle.

Do Asscher diamonds show color and inclusions more easily than other cuts?

Yes—for sure. Because of the large, open step facets and the “window-like” structure, Asscher cuts tend to reveal any color tint or internal flaws much more readily than brilliant-cut diamonds. The article recommends aiming for a color around G or better and a clarity of VS2 or above to ensure the face-up appearance stays clean and bright.

Will a one-carat Asscher cut diamond look the same size as a one-carat round brilliant?

Not exactly. The article points out that because Asschers often have deeper pavilions (more of the diamond’s depth is hidden below the table) they can appear smaller from the top than a round diamond of the same carat weight. So if “face-up” size matters a lot to you, it’s worth comparing side by side.

What should I check in terms of proportions when shopping for an Asscher diamond?

Good question. While there’s no universal “cut grade” for fancy shapes like Asschers, the article mentions paying attention to aspects like symmetry, table size, and depth. Because the step-cut facets rely on clean geometry, uneven facets or poor symmetry can affect the overall look. In other words: inspect for that crisp “X” or “windmill” pattern when you look face-up.

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Dr. Rian Mulcahy

Rian is officially a Diamond PhD - just ping us if you’d like to read her fascinating 200-page thesis, titled Facets of Value: An Investigation into the Formation of Worth in the Diamond Market. She has consulted various firms all along the pipeline, from the rough diamond market to the recycled diamond industry. She holds an MA in Globalisation and Development from University College Cork and a PhD in the Sociology of Diamond Valuation from the London School of Economics.