Shape Guides

Marquise Cut Diamonds

The marquise diamond first came about in the 18th century, when the King of France commissioned a diamond that perfectly resembled the mouth of his mistress. Weird.

They are personally not my favorite cut for a diamond, however, I will admit that they have a few positive points of note.

Marquise Upsides

Just like ovals, they are flattering to the finger (even the chunkiest of digits), as they elongate the fingers and make them look positively regal.

Next, they do tend to look slightly bigger than round stones of the same weight, so you can definitely get more bang for your buck with a marquise shape (they also tend to be cheaper!).

Finally, they are very unusual. If you are looking to break the mold a little with your choice of stone, marquise is a good path to go down.

Downsides of the Marquise cut

All of that being said though, there are three important things to note when buying a marquise, and they all involve Goldilocks. Yes, you read that correctly. The chick with the porridge. Intrigued? Read on.

First let’s discuss length-to-width ratios. As we have seen in other cuts so far in this series, a poor L/W ratio can mean the difference between a diamond that looks like it’s spent too long on a juice cleanse, and a diamond that’s been to an all you can eat buffet.

It is no different with a marquise – and in fact, I would argue that it’s even more important. I believe that sticking with a ratio of 2:1 is the Goldilocks state, in that it’s ‘just right’. Anything over 2.2:1 is going to look starved, anything below 1.8:1 is going to look chubby. Now, of course if you like either of those looks you are welcome to go for them, I just think they are not as appealing to the eye;

Marquise Diamond Length to Width Ratios

Next, we must talk about bow ties. For those of you who have read my take on oval cuts, you will know that the dark specter of the bow tie is never too far away, ready to ruin our day. Bow ties are those dark shadows that fall across the face of the diamond, if it has been cut too shallow.

To counteract this bow-tie, diamond cutters will attempt to cut the diamond a little deeper in the hope of diminishing the bow-tie effect as much as possible. The problem with this is, when a marquise diamond is cut too deep you just end up getting a drab diamond.

The ‘Goldilocks’ depth range for a marquise is 58%-63%, wherein you will be able to avoid a very pronounced bow tie while retaining the integrity of the stone. It should be noted again though, that in most cases the bow tie is merely diminished not eliminated completely. It’s the nature of the beast, unfortunately. Our recommendation for table width percentage is 53%-63%.

Finally, on the Goldilocks front, I want to discuss girdles. Not the women’s boned undergarments that are designed to make you look fabulous while at the exact same time making you feel utterly miserable.

I’m talking about diamond girdles; the thin ‘belt’ that separates the crown (the top) from the pavilion (the underneath). We have a serious Goldilocks situation going on here with girdle thickness. A girdle that is too thick for example, will mean a lot of wasted space inside the stone (as well as a lackluster finish).

A girdle that is too thin on a marquise however, is even more dangerous. This is because the tips of the marquise diamond are extremely fragile (just like the princess cut), and with a weak girdle this can spell disaster for your precious stone, leaving it open to breaking and chipping. Your Goldilocks girdle thickness is as follows: you want a range of ‘thin’ to ‘slightly thick’ only.

Marquise Color and Clarity

Next let us touch on clarity and color. With clarity, feel free to pop down to the ‘VS2-SI1’ range, as marquise cuts (just like our ovals and cushions) are very good at hiding small imperfections. As usual though, you need to be careful about the positioning of these inclusions, as a dirty black mark sitting smack right in the center of your table could really burst your bubble.

Color is a little bit trickier however. In general, we have learned that these modified brilliants (fancy cuts) tend to hold on to their color more than their round counterparts. This can be even more pronounced with the marquise cut, with the color looking even darker at those pointed tips. For this reason, I would suggest that you go for ‘G’ or above for a stone of about 1 carat, and even higher (‘D-F’) if going for a stone over 1.5 carats.

MARQUISE CUT DIAMONDS FAQ

Are marquise diamonds more expensive?

Marquise diamonds are one of the lesser expensive options. Rounds are the most expensive and will be about 20% more expensive than most other cuts for the same quality. When compared to other fancy shapes like an oval and pear they are also a bit less. This is because the other fancy shapes are more popular, therefore being more expensive.

They also appear larger than other cuts because of the elongated shape as well as the overall depth being more shallow compared to most other shapes. So if you are looking for a large appearing stone for less money then marquise may be your shape!

What do I need to know about marquise diamonds?

Marquise diamonds are a brilliant cut and can hide small inclusions relatively well. You can also go in the near colorless range (G and H)and get a nice white stone. Although going lower will show a more noticeable warmth. Colors I or lower I recommend setting in a warmer color metal like rose or yellow gold.

Also, the two points on each end are very vulnerable to chipping and need to be properly covered with the setting. You will want to avoid any inclusions that are near these points as these can weaken the durability of the area. That's never good! You can do this by looking at the plot on your report and look for any red marks near the two points. Also you will want to make sure the prongs that are covering the tip is heavier or a V prong to protect it.

Lastly, there is something called a bow tie which can occur in a marquise diamond. This is a shadow that appears in the center of the stone. It can range from barely noticeable to extremely obvious. It's important to see an image of any marquise to ensure this does not occur in your diamond.

Are marquise diamonds back in style?

Marquise diamonds were extremely popular during the 70’s and 80’s and died out for a while after that. However when you wait long enough everything comes back into style! Marquises are trending upward however they still only account for 2% of the sales. Therefore still not being a top choice among diamond shoppers.

What is the best setting for a marquise diamond?

A marquise diamond looks good in a lot of simple solitaire settings. My personal favorite is with a tapered baguette as it adds some width to the ring. Also halo settings will give it a modern twist and will make it appear larger! As long as the points are covered with a heavier prong or V prong to prevent chipping you can set in any style imaginable!

Does a marquise diamond sparkle?

Yes, a marquise diamond is a brilliant cut and will have lots of sparkle. It's important to get a nicely cut diamond though. As well as any other fancy shape you want to stick with very good to excellent for the polish and symmetry. You also want to get ideal proportions to ensure maximum light return and brilliance without having wasted weight. To do this keep the depth between 58%-63%, and the table between 53% and 63%. When you follow these ideal ranges you will have a very brilliant diamond!
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