What Is a Polki Diamond? | Rare Carat

Polki refers to raw, uncut diamonds that lend a lustrous, subtle glow to stunning gemstone jewelry designs.

History

The art of diamond-cutting originated in India some 3000 years ago. Indian Mughals were among the first cultures to recognize the potential of minerals mined from the earth and incorporate their beauty into wearable objects.

Some gem minerals can be cut and polished with emery, a granular mix of hard minerals and oil, able to cut and polish stone. Diamond is unique in being the hardest gem mineral on earth, so this brought its own challenges to cutting and shaping. A perfect octahedron rough diamond set against a white background The raw, eight-sided diamond crystals (imagine a large grain of salt) could be split along cleavage planes (areas of natural weakness) yielding stones with one flat side and only a single point, making them easier to use in jewelry designs. The flat planes could be polished to a smooth surface using the traditional emery material, revealing a lustrous glow. Over time, polki diamonds became the cut of choice in Indian bridal jewelry.

Browse Cut Diamonds

Polki Diamonds in Jewelry

Polki diamonds can be set with either the point or the flat side facing forward. In traditional Indian designs, setting the broad, somewhat circular, polished side forward in multiple settings, arranged one after another, creates a regal look that any bride from any culture would envy. An Indian bride wearing Polki diamond jewelry in traditional Indian designs, with the polished side of the diamonds set forward to create a regal vibe

4 prong ring with a polki diamond in a silver setting 4 prong polki diamond ring in a gold setting

Contemporary Western designers are actively designing with polki diamonds in wedding jewelry. Marketing them as “raw diamonds,” modern-day designs appeal to couples drawn to their unusual look and a desire for authenticity. But be forewarned: polki diamond jewelry can be more costly than traditionally faceted stones.

A Polki diamond bracelet in a contemporary Western wedding design

Because each stone is left in its natural state, settings must be crafted individually. Further, the polki design tradition tends to use multiple stones in repeated configurations, as above. The look is rich and luxurious, but to achieve it simply requires more material. To take full advantage of this unique cutting style, it’s worth it to go as far as you can take it.

What to look for in a Polki Diamond

When shopping for your polki diamond jewelry, look for light, uniform color with few visible inclusions, as color and clarity are the quality characteristics more highly prized than carat weight in this cut. When you purchase your polki jewelry, you’ll be taking part in a rich diamond heritage, like the Indian Mughals of ages past.

Learn about Diamond Shapes and Cuts

Polki Diamond FAQs

Can you explain Polki diamonds to me?

The most unique thing about them is that they are not faceted or shaped like modern gems or typical cuts. They are raw, uncut diamonds, offering a stunning aesthetic. It keeps its natural form and gives jewelry a soft, subtle glow rather than the sharp sparkle of a cut diamond.

Where did Polki diamonds first become popular?

They have roots in ancient India, where early diamond cutting began. They are common in traditional Indian bridal and ceremonial jewelry. It has become a go-to style for regal designs.

Are Polki diamonds used in modern Western designs too?

Yes. They are used by some contemporary Western designers in wedding jewelry. They are called “raw diamonds” to appeal to couples drawn to their unique, authentic appearance.

Ready to create your perfect ring?

Start with a Diamond Start with a Setting

Not sure where to start? Read our guarantee

Randi Chervitz

Randi Chervitz is an independent studio jeweler in Saint Louis, Missouri. For more than thirty years she has explored fiber techniques in precious metals, passionately working by hand. Randi adores sparkly things and is always excited to share about them.