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Pear Shaped Diamonds - A Buyer’s Guide



·3 min read

One of the most beautiful of all fancy-cut diamonds is the Pear. In a single stone, you get the juicy roundness of the Round brilliant cut and the sleek clean design of the Marquise. However, far from being a diamond mash-up, Pear-shaped diamonds are unique and original. The Pear-shaped diamond is a refreshing style option for today’s brides.

How to Choose Your Pear

Over the years, the diamond industry has developed criteria to assess the characteristics of all diamonds - you know these as the 4C’s: Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat Weight. Because each diamond is a truly unique gift from the earth, these characteristics never appear the same way in any two stones.

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Characteristics combine in different ways to create gorgeous- or not so gorgeous- diamonds. When it comes to your Pear, the best way to choose is first to educate your eye.

Let’s go over some basics: Pear shaped stones should be bilaterally symmetrical, with both sides appearing as mirror images of each other. Head, shoulder, belly, wing, point

The round end should be round, not squared, as this shape can be visually awkward, as well as raise the carat weight, which in turn will raise your price. Beyond these simple standards, many different proportions will yield a beautiful stone.

Length to Width Ratio

Some buyers like to have numbers to help them select the proper length-to-width ratio for a pear-shaped stone. A ratio of 1.5 to 1 is often mentioned as an “ideal” proportion for a pear-shape, but this is not a hard and fast rule. Ask to see a group of stones side-by-side. Notice the differences in their shapes- is one stone “chubbier” than another? Is this one too “skinny”? What about the overall exterior contour? Look closely and get to know what appeals to you. pear comparison (1).jpg

Light Dispersion, AKA Sparkle

As with all diamonds, pay attention to how the stone disperses light. Lay the stone on top of two fingers, letting it sit down where the sides of the fingers meet. Tilt the stone in all directions under a bright light. You should see fire, the industry term for the rainbow spectrum of light, reflecting off the interior facets inside the stone.
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In a pear shape, watch out for a “bow-tie” of darkness across the center of the stone. This occurs when some interior facets in the lower part of the stone are cut at poor angles to each other, reducing the amount of light bouncing back out to your eye. Some bow-ties are slight, and will probably not affect your lifetime enjoyment of the stone. Others are more noticeable and might be a reason to pass on one stone in favor of another. no bow tie versus strong bow tie in pear diamonds

Pear-shaped diamonds are said to show color more than traditional round stones, so take some time to examine your stone in settings of different metal colors. If you want your stone to look very white, aim for a color on the higher end of the grading system. On the other hand, you may prefer to choose a stone that is noticeably yellow, taking it into the Fancy category- yet another way to make your diamond purchase really special. Since Pear-shaped stones tend to look larger than round or square stones of equal weight due to their elongated proportions, inspect carefully for uniform color throughout your stone.

As a final note, make sure you check the girdle thickness on the pointed end of the stone. A thicker girdle here reduces the likelihood of chipping over the lifetime of the stone.

To Halo, or not to Halo?

With stone in hand, you’re on to choosing your setting. The versatile pear shape works beautifully in a vintage or modern ring style. A halo of tiny diamonds encircling a stone in yellow or white gold is a lovely design trend that evokes a romantic, timeless feeling, perfect for a couple embracing traditional wedding elements. A crisp, modern approach, perhaps a pear-shaped diamond flanked by tapered baguettes set in a white metal, may inspire more modern details. Whatever you choose, your diamond will be stunning in its setting.

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As you embark upon your search for the perfect Pear, enjoy educating your eye and deciding on your own what combination of characteristics you like best. Your diamond is like your love. You know you’ve met your match the moment it happens.

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Randi Chervitz
Randi Chervitz is an independent studio jeweler in Saint Louis, Missouri. For more than thirty years she has explored fiber techniques in precious metals, passionately working by hand. Randi adores sparkly things and is always excited to share about them.